I am beginning to tackle the final steps of the miter saw stand construction. These steps will see me building the fences which are attached to the folding side tables. Then, I will attach my DeWalt DW705 miter saw to the stand making the needed height adjustments so the saw sits at the correct height and aligns front-to-back with the fences. Finally, I’ll add a small shop vac to the cabinet and attach it to my miter saw. A major benefit of this design is dust collection which would have been a problem to attach the saw to my dust collector.
Creating the fences had me searching for hardware. The fences slide out to give the miter saw stand even greater lumber support than what the already large side tables provide. Each fence is locked in place with three five-star knobs (and washer) which screw into hanger bolts surrounded by small springs. Here is what I am talking about…
I had to buy these items at three different stores – Woodcraft had the knobs, Home Depot had the hanger bolts and a different Home Depot had enough of the tiny springs for the job; six needed.
The fence system, shown at the top of this post highlighted in blue, has one design feature which was slightly difficult to create. I had to make a slot for the hanger bolts. This meant cutting away the unwanted material at my new router table. In the Fine Woodworking magazine article which formed the plan for my miter saw stand, John White pops in a half-inch spiral straight bit in a router and creates the slots at his router table. A three-eighths inch straight cutting bit is the largest such bit I have, so I had to come up with a work around to achieve the needed cut…
After precise layout of the needed slot, I used a half-inch drill bit to make starter holes. This size allows clearance for the springs which surround the hanger bolts. Once the starter holes are cut, instead of cutting away the rest of the unwanted material with a router, I remove most of the material with my table saw and a chisel. My router table made easy work of the fine, final cuts needed to clean up the slots.
I make it sound like this task went off without any problems; but that isn’t what happened. Since there is a left fence and a right fence, the two need to be mirror images of each other. In my initial layout, I located the slots on both boards for the right side only. This means I started to make two right fences instead of a left and right; a rookie mistake and pretty humbling for someone who has been woodworking for 30 years.
The only thing missing on the fence is the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System. My local Woodcraft had one in stock, but by the time I got there, it had been sold. Mine will arrive in about a week, so I’ll have to show it off in later.
In addition to the pricey Kreg stop system, I purchased a small shop vac and a special switch which will automatically start the shop vac on when the miter saw starts. The shop vac is the smallest one The Home Depot sells and is similar to what John White calls for in the plan. The two ended up costing about $90.
I spent a lot of time yesterday positioning the miter saw so it sits at the right height and aligns with the fence on the side tables. My initial cuts with the saw and vac running has me wondering if this setup is sufficient to capture most of the dust coming from the saw. I may be adding a dust hood to the back of the stand.
Construction on my miter saw stand is about 95% complete. The next post on this project will be the last one. I’ll get the Kreg stops installed and I want to add some sort of protective finish. I also need to install a new blade on the saw.
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I have already started planning for my next project which will be step three in my workshop renovation.